Yehiah,
The L2040 Fund is currently split up as follows (it changes – gets less aggressive - as time goes by):
G: 10%
F: 10%
C: 40%
S: 17%
I: 23%
According to Quicken this allocation has an average return of 8% and an average standard deviation (risk) of 10%. That means that you will average a return of 8% a year – but, under normal circumstances, you can expect a return of -2% to +18% in any single year. Note: 2008 was a special year (ie. a crash). The L2040 lost 31.53% in 2008. That was a crash of almost five standard deviations!!!
Anyway, you have kinda mucked up the idea of the L funds by investing in individual funds as well. Your current allocation is (in reality):
G: 22%
F: 22%
C: 28%
S: 12%
I: 16%
According to Quicken this allocation has an average return of 6% and an average standard deviation (risk) of 7%. That means that you will average a return of 6% a year – but, under normal circumstances, you can expect a return of -1% to +13% in any single year. In effect, you have set yourself up in something between the L2010 and L2020 – and, you are over weighted in bonds (‘F Fund’). Are you really retiring at age 36
. I bet that wasn't your intent...
Anyway, bonds (those in the ‘F Fund’ seem toppy and bubbly right now. Most here are not putting 22% of their assets into the ‘F Fund’ right now – especially at 26 years old. And, to have 22% (or even 10%) of your assets sitting in cash ('G Fund') at age 26 - with 40 years of investing to go - without a reason is very detrimental to your retirement.
Personally, at 26 years old, I wouldn’t have a dime in either the G or F Funds in a normal market. And I think we are in a normal market – excepting the foreign funds (I Fund).
I would recommend two books by Ric Edelman:
‘The Lies About Money’ has a nice portfolio quiz that can help you set up your own allocation
As far as moving assets between funds. That is a tactic used by many here. If used aggressively and often it is called 'market timing'. If used infrequently and/or without dramatic swings (big percentage changes) it can be called allocation management. If rarely used it can be a rebalance in a buy and hold strategy. At your level of expertise I would recommend setting an allocation (maybe 100% in the L2040) and taking some time to learn the ropes of retirement investing. The 20% of L2040 sitting in bonds and cash should soften any blows while you learn how to play - kinda like a non-existant San Diego Charger running game protecting a lead in the final quarter of play.
As you read, find some folks here who seem to have a strategy you like and follow them. You can watch them on the AutoTracker. Remember, you are working with a retirement fund. You want long term and consistent gains.