nnuut's Account Talk

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Been busy after work lately working on my daughter's Blazer. Seems the heater won't blow hot and I've been trying to isolate the problem. Can be a clogged heater core, bad thermostat, vacuum problem, electrical problem, mechanical problem or a combination of them all. If anyone has dealt with this before they know that I might have to remove the dashboard to fix it! CRAP! If I seemed grumpy now you know why. Anyone know how to clean out a clogged heater core? :o mechanic.jpg
 
You will have take the clogged heater core out and then let it sit in a solution for a day that will loosen up all the junk and then blow it out. Paint it if you like and then replace.
 
Could be a bad vacuum valve on the main air box under the dash too, or a broken cable attachment point on the air diverter door.

Chevy's are famous for this.

Are the water lines leading to and from the core hot?
 
Read your description and at first thought you were talking about the President's delivery tonight.
 
This problem is similar to the problem we have with the economy.
1. could have been avoided with good engineering/financial planning.
2. Is poor workmanship.
3. is Planned obsolesce or failure designed to promote sale of replacement parts and repair costs.
4. Everyone knows this may happen in all cars so they make it necessary to REMOVE the dashboard to replace it, WHY would they do that? We are having our financial DASHBOARD removed right now!
5. No I wont pay $1000 to have this done, I will do it myself.
6. I'm sure Bush feels the same way.
7.Why are my other cars made in Japan?:nuts:
 
Well I think I'll get ready for bed. It will take 30 minutes to get the grease from under my fingernals!!:nuts:
 
Nnut, Ain't it great being a Dad.. Helps keep your mind off the market. Tonight I was the lucky recipient of my son's weekly call from college complaining about the instructors. I'm sure my advice and support help to motivate him each week..well.. or at least it's good enough to keep those checks heading his way :D:D:D

FS
 
OK, everybody; at last, here is something of value I may contribute to the wonderful people on the message board. If you use a 50-50 mix of distilled water and your favorite ethelene glycol antifreeze, you will never again have cooling system problems due to corrosion. You will never have to change it again either, ever. Corrosion will not happen. Your hoses will not deteriorate either, if you keep them clean on the outside. I have proven this on several vehicles. Example: 79 chevy luv 4wd pickup I worked absoulty to death hauling wood, coal, gravel, sand, etc.etc. at 79,000 miles it blew a headgasket(izusu's always do this), and I was still able to recover most of the coolant. I wore out everything on that truck except the drivetrain. The coolant was still clean and the engine running strong at 140,000 miles when the wrecker haluled it off. Stearing, suspension, truckbed, body, frame; all shot.

If you don't believe this well, tough.:nuts: Everyone who does this is very pleased with the results.:)

If your heater core is plugged. just replace it, got one for ford f150 (bought used) at pepboys for 12 bucks. Test before installing, 'cause I had to return 3 of 'em before I got a good one. HEH!:D
 
Eldritch Flatus said:
OK, everybody; at last, here is something of value I may contribute to the wonderful people on the message board. If you use a 50-50 mix of distilled water and your favorite ethelene glycol antifreeze, you will never again have cooling system problems due to corrosion. You will never have to change it again either, ever. Corrosion will not happen. Your hoses will not deteriorate either, if you keep them clean on the outside. I have proven this on several vehicles. Example: 79 chevy luv 4wd pickup I worked absoulty to death hauling wood, coal, gravel, sand, etc.etc. at 79,000 miles it blew a headgasket(izusu's always do this), and I was still able to recover most of the coolant. I wore out everything on that truck except the drivetrain. The coolant was still clean and the engine running strong at 140,000 miles when the wrecker haluled it off. Stearing, suspension, truckbed, body, frame; all shot.

If you don't believe this well, tough.:nuts: Everyone who does this is very pleased with the results.:)

If your heater core is plugged. just replace it, got one for ford f150 (bought used) at pepboys for 12 bucks. Test before installing, 'cause I had to return 3 of 'em before I got a good one. HEH!:D
Click to expand...

Fivetears said:
I keep 4 anti-freeze containers filled with distilled water from my house air conditioner drain pipe. Also make sure your engine grounding straps are secure to the chassis. Electrolysis is a bitch.
http://www.carolinarodshop.com/Store/Griffin/radiator_electrolysis.htm
Click to expand...
Thanks guys, I'll do the 50 - 50 thing. The radiator is really gunked up with RED gummy stuff, must have been rusting in the engine block? I never thought about electrolysis in an engine, I surely will test for that one.
I just don't want to take out the dash, what a job.:suspicious:
Thanks!!
Norman
 
Fivetears said:
Could be a bad vacuum valve on the main air box under the dash too, or a broken cable attachment point on the air diverter door.

Chevy's are famous for this.

Are the water lines leading to and from the core hot?
Click to expand...
That's another one I need to do, both should be hot. NEXT!!!
Thanks:o
 
Red gummy stuff! Owwww! You are now doomed to the chemical flush procedure. Go get several of the powderd radiator flushes.(do they still make them? i wonder?) Follow directions. Do this before anything else. Then you need to get crazy and dangerous. Drain and fill several times. Then get a gallon of muriatic acid. (dangerous) dilute it 10:1 and fill cooling system with this. Do this only outdoors!!!!!!! This will convert the rust to ferric chloride which is very soluble and also very corrosive to every part of you! Especially when hot. Be very careful. heavy rubber gloves. SAFETY GLASSES. Dont drain on anything you don't want stained or dead! AGAIN DO THIS OUTSIDE!Dispose of in dirt away from dwellings. Dirt will render it inert. Only thing it will do to dirt is enrich it with iron. O yeah, don't let the acid or stuff you drain come in contcact with any other cleaners or chemicals. Could make unwanted gasses.You and do this safely and environmentally sound. Just dispose of all drainagein dirt. It will not harm a sewage plant either. All the stuff from the comercial cleaners will get eaten by bacteria, leaving only iron salts. The ferric chloride gets converted to iron and salts also. Dirt is a great buffer. But not for petroleum stuff.Whew! Hope this helps. Been down this road several times, with varying success. Good Luck. You might not even have to replace the heater core,(but dont count on it):D
 
Ummmmm, Also be advised that all the frothing an bubbles that occur are produced by hydrogen gas. There could be a lot of it and it could come back out of the radiator filler quite rapidly.:blink
Crap. y'know, this is rather dangerous and although I would do it in a heartbeat, you need to use your own best judgment. I 've been working with dangerous stuff my whole career. What do they say "familiarity breeds contempt"
??
 
Thanks EF, how long do you leave the Acid in the system? I ain't afraid of no stinkin' Hydrochloric acid, have a gallon in the garage! 10 to 1 makes it nicer. I haven't seen any powdered chemical flush, probably outlawed it because it worked? I replaced the heater hoses today and flushed and back flushed until I was sick of it. I could actually get water to go through the core both ways? Put some Zerex SUPER Radiator Cleaner that you apply and drive for 3 to 6 hours and dump. Suppose to get rid of solder bloom, rust, scale and corrosion that others cannot. Has Sodium Gluconate, Tetrasodium, Sodium_Hydroxide and water in it? :laugh: I really don't think it will remove the terracotta gunk that's in the heater core but going to give it a try. The return heater hose was clogged at the restricted fitting where it hooks to the block. I really think it's remove the dash time, but might try your super flush!!
Thanks
Norman
 
Leave the hcl solution in until it quits bubbling. drain and repeat. You do need to get it all out when yer done.... (just cook until the juices run clear:D).....I like to do this on a cold engine and run it just long enough to circulate it a little. The rate of a chemical reaction doubles for every 10 degree increase in temperature. And remember , the ferric cloride produced is corrosive and quite toxic so please do be very carefull.
 
KevinD said:
Dude? What does it look like in your radiator? :blink:
Click to expand...

Buster said:
With That much rust..better check your freeze plugs too.
Click to expand...

The radiator and hoses and thermostat were replaced about 2 months ago, by the previous owner, is a very small build up in it but nothing like the original heater hoses they had over 1/16" looks like red clay some is hard and gritty some soft. I replaced the heater hoses today. I was wondering if someone might have used Stopleak in the system?:confused: I think the Heater Core is probably packed but flushes and back flushes. After todays flush I did get a little heat (not enough) when the motor got up to temperature.:cool: Freeze plugs, your right will do when I drain and flush Saturday.
Thanks
 
Back to the Market!
The "S" was up .95% yesterday, and is down today due the the stalemate on the BAILOUT!! Today the "S"nake fund is showing it's butt and is down 1.98% a minute ago!:mad: GREAT! Electrocution.gif
 
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